Flsun official website

Flsun official website DEFAULT

APRIL 5-10 2022

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I have a lot of printers, but the Flsun Q5 is my first delta machine. For some reason I never got my hands on a delta and I was really interested in testing one.

What are delta printers?

Most common FDM 3D printers right now are cartesian and Core XY printers.

Cartesian printers move the bed on the Y axis, and the hotend moves on the X and z axis. In this case, the heaviest movement part is the bed, and this can cause ringing on the surface of the prints if speeds are not tuned well. This is the reason most of the cartesian printers are used at relatively low speeds.

Most Core XY printers move their bed only on the Z axis, and the hotend moves on the X and Y axis. Because the heaviest part of the printer moves only in small increments on the Z axis, you can now push the printer to higher speeds.
With a bowden setup, Core XY printers can print faster than a cartesian printer and usually with better quality.

For delta printers, the bed is completely stationary, and the hotend moves in all three XYZ axis. This movement is made possible by three moving arms which are connected to the hotend assembly. Each arm is controlled by a single stepper motor and moves independently to control the position of the nozzle.

With this type of movement included in a delta printer, the hotend is a bowden setup to keep the weight as low as possible. Movements can be much faster which translates to faster print speeds and you are usually limited only by the cooling capacity of your part cooling fan and the hotend.

Unfortunately, there’s also a downside with delta printers. Usually, the build volume is about half of its height because the moving arms I was telling you about need extra room in order to perform the movements on all three axes. Besides the volume loss on the Z axis, you also loose a bit of space on the X and Y due to the circular bed.

A delta printer is a good contender for Klipper and that’s the main reason I was interested in playing around with the Flsun Q5.

Flsun Q5 Packaging and Shipping

The printer was shipped from a local warehouse (UK) and delivery took around 5 days. Packaging for the Flsun Q5 is much smaller than I expected, but all the components are properly secured and protected during shipping.


With the printer you also get the following accessories:

Flsun Q5 assembly 6 | Flsun Q5 Review: Delta printer for beginners
  • Leveling sensor
  • Hotend assembly
  • Effector arms
  • Installation screws
  • Filament cutting pliers
  • Spatula
  • USB cable
  • MicroSD Card
  • Spare 0.4 mm nozzle
  • A set of hex wrenches
  • Metallic spool holder
  • PLA sample

Assembly of the Flsun Q5

The assembly process of the Flsun Q5 is straight forward and easy to do even for a beginner. First, you need to connect the three extrusion assemblies on the base plate then install the top of the printer.

Flsun Q5 assembly | Flsun Q5 Review: Delta printer for beginners

Next, you install the effector arms to each axis and finally, install the hotend assembly. With the printer assembled, you just need to install the spool holder on top of the printer, and double check all the wire connections. If everything looks good, then you’re ready to start printing.

Flsun Q5 assembled | Flsun Q5 Review: Delta printer for beginners

Flsun Q5 specs

Build Volume (L X W X H)φ200X 200 mm
Maximum layer resolution0.1-0.4 mm
Recomended layer resolution0.2-0.3mm
Printing speed20-200 mm/seg
Recomended speed80mm/s
Filament Diameter1.75 mm
Nozzle Diameter0.4 mm
XY Positioning Precision0.012mm
Z Positioning Precision0.004mm
Operation Temperature5-37°C
Product Dimensions300x300x650mm
Shipping Box660x360x150 mm
Product Weight7kg
Shipping Weight8KG
Input VoltageAC 100-240V
Power outputDC 24V 8A
Filament MaterialPLAABS
Printer CaseAluminum
Monitor ScreenTouch screen
Print TechnologyFDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)
Supported File TypeSTL,G-code, OBJ
ConnectivityUSB, SD card

Titan clone extruder

It’s nice to see that the Flsun Q5 comes with a geared extruder in the form of a Titan clone. The quality is acceptable and it’s much better than any kind of cheap extruder you can find on some Creality machines.

Titan Extruder on Flsun Q5 | Flsun Q5 Review: Delta printer for beginners

Considering that the Flsun Q5 is a delta, and you can push the printer at much higher speeds compared to a regular 3D printer, the Titan extruder will ensure the consistent extrusion needed.

V6 hotend

The Flsun Q5 comes with a V6 hotend clone with a few changes from the regular V6. It gets mounted on the printer using two screws that go inside the heatsink trough the bottom.


The heatblock is smaller than a regular V6 and the head break is PTFE lined so I don’t recommend going over 245C for a long period of time.

The hotend can be a limiting factor when printing because if you raise the print speed too much, the hotend cannot keep up. A volcano hotend would have been a better addition to this printer, but the current one works fine for up to 70mm/s. Heating is fast and the nozzle can reach 210C in about 2 minutes.

Unfortunately, there’s no silicone sock on heatblock but this is a really cheap upgrade which will keep your heatblock clean.

MKS Robin Nano 1.2 (32-bit board with TMC2208 silent drivers)

The board included with the Flsun Q5 is made by Makerbase. It’s the Robin Nano 1.2 board with 3x TMC2208 silent stepper drivers. The extruder uses an A4988 stepper driver which is a bit louder. It should be easy enough to replace the stepper driver with a similar TMC2208 to make the printer even quieter.

Considering the price of the printer, I can understand why they saved a few dollars with an older stepper driver but a TMC2208 would have been nice.

Flsun Q5 Motherboard | Flsun Q5 Review: Delta printer for beginners

As you can see, there’s room for another stepper driver, so the printer can be upgraded to dual extrusion in the future, if you’re looking to try it. Of course, this will require some modification to the printer. Specifically, adding an extra stepper motor, extruder, and a split connector for the filament

The MKS Robin Nano V1.2 also has a port for connecting a MKS Wi-Fi module which can allow you to send prints remotely to the printer.

Small 2.8inch touch screen

The touchscreen included with the Flsun Q5 is a MKS 2.8 TFT which is responsive and offers most of the controls you would expect.

It doesn’t have any special functions like the BTT TFT35, but it gets the job done. I like that the screen menu takes you through the Z calibration process so it will be easy for anyone to correctly do the calibration whenever it’s necessary.

Ultrabase style glass bed

The printing surface included with the Flsun Q5 is an Ultrabase style glass bed, similar to what you can find with an Anycubic or Creality printer. The round glass bed has good adhesion and prints can be removed easily after the bed cools down.

There was no need for me to use the metal spatula to remove the prints because they get released by themselves after the bed cools down.

Ultrabase like bed on Flsun Q5 | Flsun Q5 Review: Delta printer for beginners

The print surface is flat and after calibrating the Z offset and probing the bed, I never had to touch it or use babystepping for a perfect first layer.

You can reach up to 100C, thanks to the DC powered heat bed underneath the glass. Heatbed insulation material is also present which helps the bed reach the required temperature faster, and lower the overall power draw during operation. The bed reaches 60C in 2 minutes, and 100C in about 6 minutes.

Auto bed leveling

For leveling the printer (or maybe it’s better to call this “calibrating the printer”) you get a removable sensor which clips next to the hotend.


With the help of this sensor, the Flsun Q5 probes the bed in 25 points and then generates a mesh to compensate for the inaccuracies that might be present in the heat bed. It works really well and makes the whole setup a breeze. I only used it once since I got the printer.

I like the fact that a delta printer takes a lot less space compared to a regular printer. The Flsun Q5 makes no exception and it takes only 50cm on the desk. It takes about the same space as a regular resin printer.

Fanless power supply

Because the heated bed is relatively small, it doesn’t draw a lot of power. This allows the manufacturer to use a lower power power supply (240W) which doesn’t need a fan. The benefit of using a lower power supply with no fan is lower noise during operation.


Inside the enclosure there’s a 4020 fan which blows air over the stepper drivers and power supply, so cooling is fine.

Not the greatest spool holder

Unfortunately, the spool holder is not the best. Because it is connected with only two screws on the relatively thin metal sheet on top, it’s not that stable.


It works but I think an upgraded spool holder with bearings would work much better for the Flsun Q5. The spool holder arm is also a bit small and it will not allow the use of wider spools of filament.

Fortunately, there are a lot of 3D printable solutions available so this is an easy fix.

Good calibration from factory

I was pleasantly surprised to see that the printer is properly calibrated right from the factory. I didn’t need to perform any kind of extruder or flow calibration. Everything was on point.


This made the whole experience with the printer painless and I am sure any beginner will appreciate this. You just take the printer out from the box, assemble it then start printing. Of course, you will need a decent profile, but otherwise, the Flsun Q5 is one of the easiest printers to setup

Mirrored prints

It’s also worth noting that the prints from the Flsun Q5 are mirrored, and I could not find a reason for this but I will update this review when I find a solution.

This can be probably fixed by editing the firmware but I think it’s worth mentioning the current state of the printer firmware.

Later Edit: The issue was fixed by flipping the X and Y motor wires and end stops. They were not installed correctly during assembly in the factory. After flipping the connectors, everything printed in the correct orientation.

Slicer profile for Flsun Q5

During my time with the printer, I tuned a Prusa Slicer profile for the Flsun Q5. This profile is tuned for the stock printer and worked well for me. If you are looking to give it a go, then feel free to download from the links below:

Flsun Q5 Prusa Slicer Profile – PLA – 3DPrintBeginner

There was no need for me to calibrate the extruder of flow, but if you notice some extrsion issues, you can follow the Flow Rate Calibration article in order to do that.

Test prints on the Flsun Q5

3D Benchy

As I regularly do, I started a 3D Benchy because it’s the easiest way to determine what kind of settings I need to adjust on my slicer profile to improve the quality. Not the best benchy, but considering I used a default untuned profile, I think it’s decent.

  • Material: Sunlu Gray PLA
  • Layer Height: 0.2
  • Nozzle Temperature: 210C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 60 mm/s


I thought I try the printer with a slightly bigger model and a tuned slicer profile before moving on. So, I grabbed the Unicorn from Alsamen and started a print. It finished in less than 3 hours and as you can see, the results are excellent.

No sign of Z banding, extrusion is consistent, and I was amazed by the quality you get out of the box.

  • Material: FilamentOne PLA Glint Purple
  • Layer Height: 0.15mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 210C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 70 mm/s

Knurled Bolt

I printed the sliced G-code from the SD card with decent results. The nut can spin on the bolt but the slicer settings used are a bit too much (retraction too high, bed too hot).
So, I printed a second one with my PLA profile and the tolerances are better. The nut spins freely and it looks great. I’m happy with the results.

  • Material: Gembird Christmas Green
  • Layer Height: 0.15mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 210C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 70 mm/s


Now that I confirmed that all the slicer settings are right, I printed the Cyclops bust from Eastman. I also increased the speed a bit, because it’s a bigger print and layers have more time to cool.

Results are again, impressive! Considering the speed this bust was printed, you can’t really ask for more. Print time was about 8 hours.

  • Material: FilamentOne PLA Glint Blue
  • Layer Height: 0.15mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 210C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 70 mm/s

Elven Assassin

Using the same settings, I printed the Elven Assassin from Eastman. The quality is just as good and I can’t see any problem with the printed model.

  • Material: FilamentOne PLA Glint Gray
  • Layer Height: 0.12mm
  • Nozzle Temperature: 210C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Print Speed: 70 mm/s


In order to check the TPU performance of the printer, I printed the Moai from Thingiverse. This time, I lowered the print speed to ~35mm/s for consistent results. It’s not really possible to print TPU faster on the Flsun Q5 because the filament compresses in the bowden tube and can’t be extruded consistently.
With a lower speed, the results are good.

Sours: https://3dprintbeginner.com/flsun-q5-review-delta-printer-for-beginners/
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Final Words

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Sours: https://www.resourcecenterchicago.org/best-flsun-3d-printer-website/
FLSUN QQ-S Delta Large 3D Printer Review
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  • Sours: https://www.yeggi.com/q/flsun+parts/

    Official website flsun

    # Firmwares

    Firmwares are an essential part of every 3D printer! A lot rides on proper on the proper firmware for the proper board!

    # Official Firmwares

    Inside the zip files, there are usually 6 different rar files:

    • QQ with leveling pad
    • QQ with leveling switch
    • QQ-S with leveling pad
    • QQ-S with leveling switch
    • QQ-S with leveling pad, different-looking icons ("new UI")
    • QQ-S with leveling switch, different-looking icons ("new UI")

    Extract the proper one for your configuration.


    The new UI version for QQ-S has mistakes in the "robin_mini_cfg.txt" file.

    If you choose this version, you should get the robin_mini_cfg.txt file from the other (2.3) version. (If you can't extract the rar files, install a program such as 7-Zip.)

    # How do I update my printer?

    You need a reliable SD card that is 32GB or smaller and FAT32 formatted. Just extract the contents from the appropriate rar/zip file to the SD card root.

    • QQ: you should see (on card) 2 "mks" directories and 3 files starting with "mks".
    • QQ-S/Q5: you should see 2 "mks" directories and 2 files starting with "robin".
    • Turn the printer off, insert the SD card into the printer, and then turn it on.
    • The printer should show "Updating", after which it should start up normally.
    • After updating, you will need to auto-level and set the Z0 height again.

    # What's the deal with firmware?

    # QQ: The QQ has 3 firmwares: Gen L board, TFT28 board, Wifi board

    Typically, the Gen L firmware is left alone and only the other two are updated. The Gen L board has a version of Marlin 1.x on it, modified by FLSun.

    # QQ-S/Q5: It has 2 firmwares: Robin Mini (Q5:Nano) board, Wifi board (if equipped)

    The Robin Mini board runs a custom MKS/FLSun firmware based on Repetier. Since Repetier firmware is GPL licensed, FLSun is required under the license to publish their changes to the source code. They are in violation of the GPL since they have not done this. Please ask them to publish the QQ-S source code!

    # Sources

    # FLSUN Q5

    # FLSUN QQ-S

    # FLSUN SR

    # Custom firmwares


    Instructions for the custom firmwares are provided by the repositories, respectively.

    # Marlin

    # Build your own

    Go to https://marlinfw.org(opens new window) or https://github.com/MarlinFirmware(opens new window) (This is for folks who will build it themselves.)

    # DeltaFoxIes

    # Klipper

    # What is Klipper?

    Klipper is a 3D printer firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi as opposed to the microcontroller of the printer. The advantage of this is that the complex inverse kinematic calculations of delta printers can be processed on the Raspberry Pi, which has way more computational horsepower compared to the 32-bit microcontroller in the printer. This way, all the microcontroller has to handle are the movement commands (ex. move stepper_a 10 steps) as well as heating commands (ex. heat extruder to 200 degrees). This results in a much smoother operation of the printer.

    Another advantage of Klipper is that you don't have to recompile and flash the printer firmware every time you change something in the configuration file like you do in Marlin. You can even edit the configuration file on the web interface and hit a button to reset the printer and instantly load the new configuration. This makes the tuning process much more efficient.

    It's also highly configurable. Here are some of the cool things you can do with it:

    • You can set it up to run multiple boards on a single printer (if you have a ton of steppers and/or extruders)
    • You can run multiple printers on one Raspberry Pi and control them all from a single web interface
    • You can set up a printer farm by running a ton of printers on a powerful Linux PC

    # How do I get it?

    # QQ-S (Pro)

    You can follow this tutorial: https://github.com/CobraPi/Klipper-Firmware-FLSUN-QQ-S-Pro(opens new window)

    # SR

    3D Print Beginner made a tutorial on how to do it if you've got an MKS Nano v3 board: https://3dprintbeginner.com/klipper-on-flsun-super-racer/(opens new window)

    Edit this page(opens new window)

    ← Upgrades Social Media communities →

    Sours: https://flsun.community/guide/firmware.html
    My NEW FAVORITE 3D printer - FLSUN Super Racer


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