Creality Latest Firmware
Creality Ender-3 Series:
1) Ender-3:Open Source, 32Bit 4.2.2/4.2.7Firmware, Upgraded Part Firmware/Manual Download
2) Ender-3Pro: Marlin Firmware/BL Touch/Open Source Files/Manuals/Drive
3) Ender-3V2: Firmware, Upgraded Part Firmware/Video tutorial Download
4) Ender-3Max: Mainboard Firmware/BL Touch Firmware Download
Creality Ender-5 Series:
1) Ender-5Plus: Open Source, Bl Original Firmware/Upgraded Silent Board Firmware/Manual Download
2) Ender-5Pro: V1.1.5/V4.2.2 Mainboard Firmware/BL Touch Firmware Download
Ender-6: Mainboard and Screen Firmware/BL Touch Firmware&Guide Download
Ender-7: Latest Firmware
Creality CR-6 Series:
1) CR-6 SE: Mainboard/Screen Firmware, SD Card Files, Video Tutorial
2) CR-6 MAX: Mainboard/Screen Firmware, Video Tutorial
Creality CR-10 Series:
1) CR-10: Mainboard Firmware, Bl touch, Open Source/SD Card Files Download
2) CR-10S: Mainboard Firmware, Bl touch, Open Source/SD Card Files Download
3) CR-10 V2: Direct Drive/Mainboard/BL Touch Firmwares, SD Card Files, Installation Guide
4) CR-10V3: Mainboard/BL-touch Firmware, SD Card Files, Video Tutorial
5) CR-10S ProV2: Mainboard/Screen Firmware, SD Card Files, Video Tutorial
6) CR-10 Smart: Latest Firmware, Video Tutorial (9.6)
CR-30: MainboardFirmware, Troubleshooting
Sermoon(Enclosed 3D Printer)
Sermoon-D1: V1.1.10 Firmware Download
CR-200B: Standard Version/Multi-Language Version - Screen Firmware
1) LD-002H: Mainboard and screen firmware/SD Card Files/Video tutorial
2) LD-002R: Mainboard and screen firmware/SD Card Files/Chitubox Slicer
3) LD-006: Latest Firmware/Firmware for Tianma screen
Creality HALOT Series:
1) Halot-One: Latest firmware updates by connecting computer with USB cable
2) Halot-SKY: Latest firmware updates by connecting computer with USB cable
Creality Other Printers
CP-01CR-10 miniCR-10S4CR-10S5CR-X proCR-20CR-20 proCR-R1CR-XCR-10 MAX
BL TouchCR TouchLaser EngraverTouch ScreenZ Axis Profile
Latest troubleshooting guide also includes the cr-10s pro
Creality 3d printer firmware flash guidance
Creality laser software file and install tutorial
Windows slice version
Mac slice version
*Didn't find what you need? Leave your thoughts here
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3D Printer Part & More
BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2– Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)
The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.
If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.
|Mount||Probe X Offset||Probe Y Offset|
|Custom Mount V3||-42||-10|
|Creality Official Mount||-44||-6|
Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)
Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.
[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.
For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance
If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.
If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.
Older Build (V1.2.2)
If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build
What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?
- The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.
For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.
For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here
Some UI customizations the community has added
Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
- Turn on and off display during printing
- PID Autotune Menu
- Change Filament menu
- Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
- __h__m Time Format Setting
And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
Instead of adding the command above. You can replace it with (Place it after G28). basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.
Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
Steps to produce a good leveling
- Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
- Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
- After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
- Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
- Done and start printing!
- Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.
What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.
If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing
Z-axis won’t budge
Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.
Black Screen of Death after flashed
Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord
Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y
Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.
Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.
Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.
Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.
Setting is not saved
Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.
Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.
Motor making noises and freeze during print.
This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.
Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.
Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.
Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
Github Repository is here.
If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set in platform.ini
What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/download/32
One of the most challenging parts of setting up a 3d printer is getting the bed leveled right and keeping it level between prints. Some of the more expensive printers have a built-in auto bed leveling kit that aids in this process, but that’s not the case for popular printers like the Creality Ender 3. Fortunately, that can be solved for by adding an aftermarket auto bed leveling kit, like the BLTouch, to printers that support it.
Here are the steps to install a BLTouch on a Creality 32-bit mainboard.
- Physical Install
- Firmware Update
- Set Z-Offset
- Update Printer Profile in Cura
*This process assumes you have a Creality 32-bit mainboard and plan to upgrade it using the pre-compiled Creality firmware. If you’re looking to build custom firmware, you will want to follow this guide “Marlin Firmware on Creality Board – Complete Guide!“.
** This process has been tested with the Creality 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 mainboard.
Step-by-Step Install Guide
*Links are to Amazon, and for the products I use.
The first thing you will want to do is install the BLTouch on the printer. This involves you running the wires, connecting the cables to the BLTouch and mainboard, and mounting it to the x-axis carriage.
I like to run the wires before I try to mount anything. You will want to run the wires alongside the cables for the extruder and leave enough slack at the extruder to be able to plug the adapter into the BLTOUCH. At this point, I would not use a couple of zip ties to hold the wires in place loosely. You want to make sure you can still adjust the wires if needed.
*Note: You should make sure that the adapter that connects to the BLTouch is by the extruder; only one of the adapters will connect to it.
Connect Wires to the BLTouch
Once the wires have been run, you can connect the adapter to the BLTOUCH. It adapter should be connected with the brown wire on the left and white wire on the right, as pictured below.
*Note: If you ended up getting a BLTouch clone, the wire colors may be different.
Connect Wires to the Mainboard
Next, we want to connect the wire to the mainboard. They should be connected in this order shown in the picture below.
Here is an overview of what each wire is for.
|Wire Color||Board Pin||Board Label|
Clean up the cabling
Now that everything is wired up, you should spend a couple of minutes cleaning up the cables. You will want to tighten the loose zip ties from before and add a couple more where it makes sense. I would target one zip tie every 6 – 8 inches. The main purpose of this will be to make sure the cables don’t get caught or pinched when the printer is in operation.
Mount BLTouch to Mounting Bracket
The next thing you want to do is mount the BLTouch to the mounting bracket that came with the kit. The wires should be on the inside of the bracket, and you will use the provided bolts to mount everything in place.
Mount Bracket to the X-Axis Carriage
Finally, we will want to mount the bracket to the x-axis carriage. To do this, you will need to remove the two screws that are on the left side of the fan duct cover. Hold the BLTouch bracket in place, then put the screws back in. The bracket should go on the outside of the fan duct cover.
It may be a little tricky to get the screws back in, but I found that if I push one of the screws all the way through it’s easier to align it with the threads on the carriage.
Download the Firmware Package
Next, we want to go to Creality’s download site and get the latest firmware for the printer and board combo you are using. In this example, I have the Ender 3 Pro with the 4.2.2 mainboard, so I will want to get the firmware bundle for that.
Move Firmware Package to SD Card
Once you have the firmware bundle from Creality, you will want to unzip the folder and find the actual firmware file you need. In my example, I want to get the “Ender-3 Pro- Marlin2.0.1 – V1.1.2 – BLTouch.bin” file that’s under the “Marlin2.0.1 BLTouch V1.1.2 without transfer board” folder.
Once you found the firmware bundle binary that you’re looking for, you will want to drag it to an empty SD card that is under 8GB or less.
Install the New Firmware on the Printer
This step sounds more challenging than it actually is. Assuming you copied the right file to the SD card, all you need to do is put the SD card in the printer and power it on. From there, the printer will pull the file and install it on the printer. The entire process should take less than 30 seconds. Once the printer boots into the standard interface, you can remove the SD card.
Now you will want to make sure the new firmware has been uploaded by following the steps we did to get the initial version. You will go into the menu then go to about printer. From there, you will make sure the version matches what was on the SD card, so 1.1.2 in this example.
Once the BLTouch is in place, and the firmware has been updated, you will need to set your z-offset. This is arguably the most challenging part of setting up a BLTouch, and it may take you a couple of times to get right. I will break this section into two parts, getting the z-offset then setting the z offset.
The first thing you will need to do is get the z-offset. You will get that by going to Menu – Prepare – and selecting Auto Home. Once the auto home runs, you will want to get a sheet of paper to use, similar to what you would use to manually level the build plate. Next, you go to Menu – Prepare – Move Axis – Moze Z and lower the z-axis until it’s scraping the paper. Make a note of that value as it will be your z-offset, in my example, it was -2.6. Now raise the z-axis back up or rerun the auto home (*don’t skip this part).
*The Z-Offset needs to be set to 0.00 (the default setting) for this to be accurate. If you were making changes before, I would clear the EEPROM or make sure this value is set to 0.00.
Now that we know the z-offset value, we can set it. You will want to go to Menu – Control – Bed Leveling – Probe Z Offset. Once there, you will set the z-offset value to the value you set in the previous step, -2.6 in my example.
Now got to the Menu – Control – Bed Leveling – Store Settings. It’s important that you do this. If you don’t, the value will be erased when you power the printer off.
Next, you will want to kick off a test print and make sure the first layer looks right. If its off, you will need to go back and make small adjustments to the z-offset.
Update Printer Profile in Cura
The final step is to add a G29 code to the Start-G-code box in the machine settings box in your printer profile. Doing this will tell your printer to run the grid that the BLTouch will use at the start of each print.
To do this, go to preferences – Configure Cura – Printers – Select the printer you are working with and click on Machine Settings. Once there, add G29 ; BLTouch under G28 ; Home all axes in the Start-G-code box. After that has been added you can close out of the machine settings window and use Cura as normal.
*This process assumes that you have Cura installed and a profile for your printer. If you don’t, I recommend starting with this video first and download my Cura profiles.
Why is a BLTouch recommended? – I recommend the BLTouch because it uses software to make mini movements as needed to account for the build plate not being level or having warps. Many 3d printers have warped build plates that will impact prints and can only be corrected by being replaced with a flat one or an auto bed leveling device like the BLTouch.
What if I have an 8-bit Creality mainboard? – You will need to install a bootloader on the printer, then push the firmware to it. I created a video covering the upgrade process and adding the BLTouch. That said, if you don’t already have the hardware to do this upgrade, it will probably cost you around $20, and I would recommend putting that $20 towards a silent 32-bit board like the SKR Mini.
What if I need to modify the firmware? – If the Creality pre-compiled firmware doesn’t meet your needs, you can build a custom version of the Marlin firmware. I cover the process in more detail here (coming soon) and in this video.
Add an auto bed leveling kit to your 3d printer will make a massive difference in your prints and has been one of my favorite upgrades. The BLTouch does require a little work to get set up and working, but once it’s working, it will make things much easier.
Make sure you check out our YouTube channel, and if you would like any additional details or have any questions, please leave a comment below or join us on Discord. If you liked this article and want to read others click here.
It's important to know a little about how the BLTouch auto-bed leveling sensor works with 3D printers like the Ender 3 V2 to understand the small adjustments you'll need to make later on.
What is BLTouch?
First appearing in 2015, the BLTouch by Antclabs is an add-on electrical component for a 3D printer that uses a sensor stem to detect any tilt in the bed surface. It's built to use very little power at idle and use so that it can be installed directly in the Ender 3's motherboard, without any heat issues.
If you want to learn more about the BLTouch, here's a nifty video from the creators themselves. This isn't specific to the Ender 3 or Ender 3 V2.
What types of surfaces will it work for?
Any! The latest version of the BLTouch does not use any optical sensors or proximity sensors. Instead, it uses a plastic sensor stem that makes physical contact with the build surface so that any surface can be used.
BLTouch versus other auto-bed leveling methods
The main difference between BLTouch and other auto-leveling methods has to do with the kind of sensor used.
Other sensor methods
Other auto-leveling methods use an optical or proximity sensor to determine any inaccuracies in the slope of the build surface. Those methods have the benefit of being able to adjust while the printing is happening. But have the downsides of not working with certain bed materials and being expensive to repair.
With the BLTouch, you can use any type of bed and need only swap out the plastic nozzle if it's damaged. There's also a ton of support and articles that can help you if you run into trouble using your BLTouch.
As stated above, we highly recommend you save yourself some hassle and go with the BLTouch kit we used for the install.
If using the BLTouch kit
Again, it has everything you need to install the BLTouch on the Ender 3 V2, original Ender 3, or Ender 3 Pro. It includes:
- The BLTouch
- Extension cable
- Mounting bracket (for Ender 3 V2, Ender 3, and Ender 3 Pro)
- Zip ties for wires
- Replacement sensor stem for the BLTouch
If buying pieces separately
Below you'll find links to each product you'll need if you're buying pieces separately.
- BLTouch with extension cable (We use the latest version (V 2.0), which Creality supports directly with its firmware update.)
- Mounting bracket As of this writing, you can't purchase a separate bracket for the Ender 3 V2, but you can 3D print one! (Make sure it's the correct bracket for the Ender 3 V2! You'll need different brackets for the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro.)
- 2 M2 x 6 + 2 M2 x 8 bolts (We linked to a small kit that includes the required bolt sizes.)
- Zip ties
Because you'll be working with the Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro motherboard to install the BLTouch, you definitely want to unplug the wire from the printer's power supply.
It's located at the back of all of the Ender 3-series units.
Because you'll be using the BLTouch to level your Ender 3 V2's bed and setting the Z-axis manually, you won't need the limiter switch.
- Using your hex key, unscrew the two bolts attached to your Z-axis limiter to the Ender 3 V2.
- You can either remove the wire from the mainboard when you open it up later on, or you can simply zip-tie the wire behind the frame.
Insert the small end of your extension cable into the back of the BLTouch. We recommend you do this step first, as it will be harder to insert once it's been mounted. Below you'll find the order of the wires, in case you have to solder.
- Using your hex key and the two M3 x 8 bolts, screw the BLTouch into your mounting bracket so that it will face towards the build surface.
- Next, using the remaining two bolts, mount the mounting bracket just to the left of your Ender 3 V2's fan. The holes should be predrilled.
If you have one of the nifty small nuts and bolts kit, then you can add two M3 nuts to further secure the BLTouch to the mounting bracket, as pictured below.
- String your extension cable to the fan's wiring harness, which extends out of the fan and along the back of your Ender 3 V2.
- Continue to string the extension cable, following the main wire harness path around the back of the unit to the motherboard.
- Secure with zip ties at key locations to keep the wire secure.
- Using your M2 hex key, unscrew the bolts from the bottom of the control box (located on the front-left of your Ender 3 V2). (See below.)
- And unscrew the bolt on top, as well.
- Carefully remove the control box enough to access the motherboard, paying special attention to the fan.
- Note the wiring location of the fan and unplug the fan from the motherboard. (This will ensure you don't break the wire as you install the BLTouch.)
For Ender 3 V2
If you're using the BLTouch kit, then you should be able to just plug the connector in the slot labeled "BLTouch" on the mainboard. (See image above for its location.)
If you're needing to solder, then I would remove some of the wires from the mainboard to give you some space. Here's the ordering of the wires from top to bottom:
For Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro
The BLTouch wiring connects to the Ender 3 mainboard by splicing into the Z Endstop connector. This connector is labeled with a small yellow label that reads "Z".
There are two options for connecting the BLTouch to your Ender 3's existing wiring: if you have a soldering iron, you can splice a wire in. If you don't, you may want to purchase this extension board so that you can connect it without soldering.
I recommend using the breakout board as it's simpler and saves a lot of time. Most BLTouch kits for the Ender 3 come with this now.
- Remove the LCD connector out of its housing to gain access to the pins next to it. The LCD connector is the wide strip of gray wires.
- Remove the Z-endstop plug (labeled with a "Z").
- Carefully switch the wires out of the Z-endstop plug with the black and white wires from the BLTouch (White on left; Black on right).
- Plug it back in the same slot with the BLTouch wires installed.
- If you're using the adapter board, place the adapter board into the connector where the LCD ribbon cable used to be. (It will only fit one way.)
- The remaining three wires should fit in the plug on the adapter.
- Before you do this make sure the wires are in the correct order. (Shown below.) You may need to reverse wires in the plug itself.
- Reattach the LCD ribbon cable.
- Close the control box up.
Before you close it up, note the version of your mainboard (4.2.2 or 4.2.7). It's written in the center of your mainboard.
- Plug the fan back into the correct slot on the motherboard.
- Use your hex key to screw back in the bolts to the Ender 3's control box.
It's easiest if you start with the two bolts nearest the front of the printer.
Because Creality now supports BLTouch directly in its firmware, it makes installing and using the BLTouch with the Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro super easy!
Ender 3 V2 Firmware —Fetch the correct firmware from the Creality Ender 3 V2 downloads page and install it on your printer.
Ender 3 Pro Firmware— Here you can find the official BLTouch firmware for the Ender 3 Pro.
Check out our guide on installing firmware on the Ender 3 V2 to see how to update your firmware. (The same guide works for the Ender 3 Pro.)
For Ender 3
It's a bit trickier to update the firmware on the original Ender 3, but not a big deal. You'll need to modify your printer's firmware to add a few lines that BLTouch needs in order to function. I wrote a separate Ender 3 bootloader/firmware update guide; use that guide to get started.
Ender 3 Firmware— You can find the official Creality Ender 3 source code and files on the Creality firmware page. Just make sure you download the correct package (saying BLTouch).
In some cases, you may find that your language resets to Chinese by default. If this happens, follow our guide to change the language back to English on the Ender 3 V2.
Which is the correct firmware for Ender 3 V2?
You may notice a variety of options for the new Ender 3 V2 firmware. Here's what you need to figure out.
The first thing you need to know is which mainboard you're running for your Ender 3 V2. Hopefully, you noted this earlier when opening your control box. If you don't know, then here's a little table to help you figure it out.
|On some pre-2021 Ender 3 V2s||On ALL 2021 + Ender 3 V2s|
|Louder operation||Quiter operation|
Listening to the operation should tell you. If it's operating loudly, you likely have the 4.2.2. Otherwise, you'll have to look on the motherboard itself.
Make sure the firmware you select says BLTouch.
The last thing you'll need to figure out is which version you need V1.3.1- BLTouch or V1.1.1- BLTouch. The easiest way is to try the latest version. If that does not work, then repeat the firmware install with V1.1.1. (V1.1.1 is the version that worked for our Ender 3 V2.)
Is BLTouch working?
Once you update your firmware, you should see the BLTouch light-up red after turning the printer on. If it is, then it's working thus far! Congrats!
- "Auto home" the nozzle by going to Prepare > Auto home.
- Change the Z-axis by going to Move > Move Z and rotating the knob to turn the Z-axis to Ø.
Now, you're going to adjust the Z-offset on your Ender 3 V2 so that it's flush with the print bed.
Adjust the Z-offset down a little at a time to avoid running the nozzle into your print bed and damaging it.
- In the Prepare screen, select Z-offset (misspelled in our firmware version as "Z-offest").
- Turn the knob, adjusting the Z-offset a little at a time until the nozzle just begins to touch the print bed. Use a piece of paper, like you do when you manually level the Ender 3 V2 print bed.
- Continue to adjust the Z-offset negatively until the paper is hard to move.
Ender 3 Pro Adjustment
The process is essentially the same on the Ender 3 Pro, except that you need to save your settings after adjusting the Z-offset properly.
After you auto-home with the Ender 3 Pro:
- Go to Motion > Move Axis > Move Z.
- Now, you're going to move the Z-axis down by small increments until the nozzle just grips a piece of paper you place underneath.
- Note the value of the Z-offset!
- Go back to the main screen on the Ender 3 Pro.
- Go to Prove Z-offset.
- Put in the value you recorded earlier (ex. -2.4).
- Go back to the main screen.
- Go to Configuration and click Store Settings.
And now you're ready to begin leveling!
Don't worry if you don't get this perfect the first time. We'll show you how to adjust this later on.
Now for the fun part! Select Level on the Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, or Ender 3 Pro screen to run the BLTouch's auto-leveling program. You should see the BLTouch measure 12 different points on the print bed to determine its slope.
It takes about 2-3 minutes and will return to the center when it's complete.
Now, you'll need to update the G-code settings of whatever slicing program you use, such as Cura or Simplify3D. We use Cura as our slicer, so we'll show you how to update the settings there. But whichever slicer program you're using, you'll need to add just one line right below :
Changing Cura settings
- In Cura, click on Ultimaker Cura at the very top-left of your screen.
- Go to Preferences > Printers > [Name of your Ender 3 V2 Printer]
- Click Machine Settings
- Under "Start G-code," add below line .
Now, every time you print something you've sliced, the printer will automatically level and use the settings to print the object.
If you're using the official firmware supporting BLTouch from Creality, you shouldn't have any issues using Octoprint with the BLTouch. It should work just fine, so long as you update the slicer settings with the code.
However, you may run into trouble when using a 3rd-party firmware for the BLTouch, such as the Smith3D firmware for the Ender 3 V2, which doesn't natively support Octoprint. In those cases, you'll need to customize the Marlin code in the firmware to run with Octoprint.
BLTouch plugin for Octoprint
The BLTouch plugin can be installed in Octoprint to give you some nifty features so that you can control the BLTouch remotely from the Octoprint server. It can be found in the Plugin Repository in Octoprint. Check out our guide on finding and installing Octoprint plugins if you need help. You can also install it manually, using the Github link.
Run a test print to ensure that your BLTouch is auto-leveling before the print and that the filament is adhering perfectly to the print bed. You may need to slightly adjust the Z-offset in either direction, depending on the issue you're having.
Adjusting after a test print
You may find you need to adjust this slightly if your filament either doesn't stick the bed or the nozzle is too close to the bed. Here's what you do.
If the filament doesn't stick (nozzle too far away from bed)
Adjust the Z-offset just a bit (0.01) in the negative direction. This will bring the extruder closer to the print bed.
If the filament is too close to bed (nozzle too close to bed)
Adjust the Z-offset a bit (0.01) in the positive direction. This will move the extruder further from the print bed.
Firmware bl touch
Creality 3d Printer with BL Touch firmware Upgrade Notification
Due to the design of the Bl touch motherboard circuit, which results in some printers models like the ender 3 pro cannot be used with BL touchV3. So we make some upgrades to ensure that the BL Touch V3 hardware components can be used on the 3d printers such as Ender-3 Pro, CR20 Pro, Ender-5, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5, also a function of the thermal protection function to pop up automatically, optimize the firmware version and improve the customer experience.
CR-10SPRO 1.60.9 Version
Solve the problem below:
- When the customer flashes the firmware for the first time and clicks auto home twice, it causes the Z-axis to lift up automatically.
- The resume printing function is not working very well, which causes a bad user experience.
- BLTouch Sensor: https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-bl-touch
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